Take the EEK Out of Steeks!

After all the work of blending fiber, spinning yarn, and knitting a sweater...I decided to cut it apart! 

As a young knitter, I felt like cutting knits was about the worst thing you can do. After all, it's a decision you can't really reverse, and one of the things I like about knitting is the ability to unravel and re-knit to fix mistakes. 

But, that was before I understood the concept of steeks. Once I learned how they work, I started using them for almost everything!

What is a Steek?

The word “steek” comes from Middle English “steken,” meaning to shut, close, or fasten. But in knitting, it means the opposite, to cut open.

​A steek is a column of extra stitches connecting two pieces of knitted fabric, allowing the knitter to work more quickly in the round. The center steek stitch will later be cut. 

Most people get nervous about their knitting unraveling when they cut a steek. However, if you cut along a column of vertical stitches, you'll find that the knitting really doesn't want to unravel in that direction! 

Traditionally, steeks are used in stranded colorwork garments made with non-superwash wools - wools that will felt with wear. Over time, the cut edge felts together and is virtually indestructible. 

However, you can use this in other ways - like I did with this sweater.

When Use a Steek? 

Use a steek when you want to knit in the round, but are working in a pattern that needs to have openings or separate pieces. This includes:

• Cardigans​
• Sleeve openings
• Neck openings
• Blankets
• Scarves
• Stranded colorwork

How to Set Up a Steek

To set up a steek, you'll add an odd number of stitches in the location you'll cut. Seven stitches seems to be the ideal number. These extra stitches won't add to the finished size of your garment - they'll get folded under during finishing.

Most steeks are done in stranded colorwork, and the steek stiches alternate in some way. I prefer a column of stitches, as shown below, but some knitters like to do a checkerboard pattern. 

If I'm not working in stranded colorwork, I'll purl the stitch that needs to be cut so that it's easy to see.

Ways to Reinforce a Steek

1. Don’t reinforce - just take a deep breath and cut! This is best for 100% non-superwash wool, and areas that will not see much stress.
2. Crocheted reinforcement - use single crochet to join half of columns 2 & 3, and half of columns 5 & 6. This is best for non-superwash wools. The crochet reinforcement adds some strength, so it can be used in areas that see a little bit more wear and tear.
3. Machine reinforcement - being careful not to stretch your knitting, run several lines of machine stitches along either side of the stitch to be cut. A walking foot is very helpful here. This method is suitable for most yarns, including non-wool yarns.

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Cutting the Steek

You'll be cutting along the center stitch (stich #4 in the diagram above). Use a sharp pair of scissors, be sure to cut a straight line, and make sure you're cutting only one layer of fabric. That's all there is to it!
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Ways to Secure a Cut Steek

Many people find they want to reinforce the cut edge in some way. Here are the ways I've used over the years. 

1. Don’t secure - only for 100% non-superwash wool. Over time, the cut edges will felt together. 
2. Whip-stitch the edge down to the garment - best for areas where you need stretch and don’t want to add bulk (like armholes).
3. Sew on a ribbon trim - best for shoulders and the inside of cardigan button bands. Adds stability, but also adds bulk. 
4. Steek sandwich - this is a knit-on facing. Stitches are picked up along the cut edge and knit outwards. A second set of stitches are picked up from the loops created from the first set of stitches, and knit outwards. The two sets of stitches are then joined together. This creates a thick facing, best for cardigan neck bands and blanket edges.